Recently found some great resources on selecting an axe from jackmtn.com

 

"An axe with a longer handle is safer than one with a shorter handle. The longer handle allows the user to position himself further from the impact point. The further this distance is, the greater the safety buffer.  There’s much more to using an axe safely than handle length, but it is an important consideration.

I think that it’s best for people to learn the skills of using an axe with a full-size axe; a 3-3.5 pound head and a 30-35″ handle. Once they’ve learned how to safely fell, limb, section and split using this tool, they can choose whatever size axe they like because they’ve learned how to use it.

Whatever size axe you learn with and spend a significant amount of time using will probably always feel like the right size to you. This is because you build familiarity and muscle memory with it, and these aren’t easily gotten rid of.


If you’re new to using an axe, never lose sight of the fact that it’s the tool user, not the tool, that gets the job done. The best axe in the hands of a novice will be far less effective than a marginal axe in the hands of an experienced user. Your time is better spent using the axe you’ve got than pining over the one you don’t."

 

"The axe is the most versatile and useful tool to have with you in the forest. It can help you build a first-class shelter, put up a sizable pile of firewood, drive tent pegs, split logs, etc., etc., etc. As with all tools, when looking for an axe you should try and get the best one that you can. The best axes made in the world were made in the northeast before the crosscut saw came into wide use. These were hand-forged of two pieces of steel; a harder, well-tempered piece for the bit and a softer piece that was hammered around the eye. The axes were the best because they were used all day, every day in the woods and the men who used them demanded quality. The single-bit axe, or poll axe, was the standard until the double-bit came along and began replacing it. Not too long after, the crosscut saw became widely used, then the chain saw. With the proliferation of the chain saw the axe was no longer used on a daily basis, and as such there was no longer a market for well-made axes. The modern axes made in the USA are usually poured into a mold and tempered one hardness throughout. They’re often too soft to hold a decent edge, or too hard to sharpen with a file. In either case, they’re not good for much except splitting kindling or cutting roots in the ground. There are still good axes available new from Scandinavia, where the axe is still widely used. There are also many great axe heads to be found at antique stores, used tool stores, and flea markets that represent the highest echelon of the axe-maker’s craft. A good test for these is to run a new, sharp file along the edge to sharpen it. If it’s too soft, the file will push the edge over. If it’s too hard, the file will skip. If it’s just right, grab onto the axe with both hands and don’t let go until you pay for it and get it home."

 

The problem we often come across in NZ is actually getting hold of quality gear as bushcraft is not as big here as it is in places like the UK. Fortunately it seems that there are a couple of suppliers of Wetterlings Axes in NZ although they vary WIDELY in price.

  • There is a guy on Trademe that has a nice selection
  • blademaster.co.nz has a few wetterlings for a very good price indeed 
  • top-gear.co.nz has the wetterling small hunting axe which is one of the best suited to bushcraft.

I would love to hear about your experiences with axes in the forum post on the topic


 

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